Spring Commissioning Checklist: Get Your Yacht Ready for the Season

Spring commissioning is the reverse of winterization, with a few extra checks that protect you from problems that crept in during storage. Done right, it takes 4–8 hours of focused work and gives you a season of confidence. Done sloppy, you'll discover problems on day one of the season.

This is the order we use, organized by system. Most yards offer this as a service for $400–$1,500 — worth it if you don't have the time, but well within reach for most owners.

Before you uncover the boat

Walk around the boat and look at it from outside the cover or shrinkwrap before removing anything:

• Standing water on top of cover? Pump it off before you cut the wrap.
• Animals or animal damage visible? Address before opening up.
• Snow or ice still on cover? Wait until it melts off.
• Cover torn through? Note where for repair.

Once you remove the cover, inspect for moisture stains, mildew, animal damage, and any obvious issues. Take photos before cleaning so you have a record.

Hull and exterior

1. Wash the entire boat. Months of dust, leaves, bird droppings, and dirt accumulate. Wash before any other work so you can see what you're dealing with.
2. Inspect the hull. Look for new gelcoat cracks, blistering, or damage that wasn't there in fall. Document with photos for any insurance claims.
3. Check zinc anodes. Replace any that are 50% or more consumed.
4. Inspect through-hulls. Confirm seacocks open and close smoothly. Lubricate as needed.
5. Inspect prop and shaft. Look for fishing line wrapped around the shaft, rope cuts, prop damage. Replace cutless bearing if play is excessive.
6. Bottom paint. Touch up scratches, repaint if you skipped fall painting. Bottom should be painted before launch.
7. Wax topsides. A fresh coat of wax before the boat hits the water saves work all season.

Engine

1. Reverse the winterization steps. Drain antifreeze from the cooling system, refill with raw water (or coolant for closed-system engines).
2. Check oil level and quality. Fresh oil should still look fresh. Milky or watery oil = water intrusion in storage; investigate before running.
3. Inspect belts and hoses. Look for cracks, glazing, soft spots. Replace anything questionable now, not at sea.
4. Check fuel. Pump a sample from the bottom of the tank into a clear container. Look for water or sediment. Treat with biocide if you didn't add stabilizer in fall.
5. Inspect raw water impeller. Replace if more than 1 year old, or if any blades look glossy/melted (sign of dry running).
6. Reconnect batteries. Verify they're fully charged (12.7V+ at rest for AGM/flooded, 13.3V+ for lithium).
7. Bleed the fuel system for diesels; turn the key for gas engines. Listen for fuel pump priming.
8. Start the engine ON THE HARD before launch if possible. Run a few seconds with garden-hose adapter — no, don't run dry. Better: start at the dock right after launch.
9. Once running, monitor: oil pressure rises immediately, water flow at the exhaust within 10 seconds, no smoke beyond initial start, no unusual noises.

Plumbing & freshwater

1. Drain all antifreeze from the system. Open every faucet and let it run pink → clear.
2. Refill freshwater tank with potable water. Add tank treatment to kill anything that grew over winter.
3. Sanitize the system: 1 cup household bleach per 10 gallons in the tank, run through every faucet for 30 seconds, let sit 4+ hours, drain, refill, run again until no chlorine smell.
4. Test the head: flush 3-4 times with fresh water, check for leaks, lubricate joker valve.
5. Test bilge pumps. Lift each float switch by hand and confirm pumps run dry-cycle. Then add a few inches of water to the bilge and confirm they trigger.
6. Test shower sump pump if equipped.

Electrical

1. Reconnect all batteries. Verify charging system works at the dock — battery monitor should show 13.5V+ when engine is running.
2. Test every electrical device: nav lights (port, starboard, stern, anchor, masthead), interior lights, fans, fridge, water pumps, autopilot, electronics.
3. Check shore power: plug in, verify polarity light is correct. If polarity is reversed at your slip's pedestal, don't connect — call the marina.
4. Inspect battery cables for green corrosion at terminals. Clean with baking soda solution, treat with battery terminal protector.
5. Test bilge pump on automatic mode. This is the one circuit that matters when nobody's aboard.

Interior

1. Open every cabinet and drawer. Air out, look for moisture damage or mildew.
2. Inspect cushions for mildew. Spot-clean as needed before mildew spreads.
3. Stock essentials: toilet paper, paper towels, basic galley items, cleaning supplies. Things you forgot you took home in October.
4. Test the stove and oven. Light each burner; confirm gas pressure is normal. Bleed gas line if it's a propane system.
5. Restock first aid kit. Replace expired items. Add seasickness pills.
6. Replace expired flares. USCG flares are good for 42 months from manufacture date — most owners don't realize they're carrying expired flares.

Safety gear

1. Check fire extinguishers. Each should have a current inspection tag (within last year) and a needle in the green zone.
2. Inspect life jackets. Inflatables need annual maintenance — check cylinders, dissolving pellets, manual inflation, fabric integrity.
3. Test EPIRB and PLBs. Self-test function should pass; battery date should be 5+ years out.
4. Test VHF. Try a radio check on channel 9 once you're on the water.
5. Inspect throwable PFD and rescue equipment.
6. Update the Float Plan template if you use one.

Sails and rigging (sailboats)

1. Inspect standing rigging. Look for cracked terminals, broken strands, corrosion. Anything questionable = call a rigger.
2. Check halyards and sheets for chafe, bird damage, UV degradation.
3. Lubricate sail tracks and slugs.
4. Inspect the boom and mast for cracks or loose hardware.
5. Bend on sails. Inspect for tears, broken battens, UV-degraded thread.

Final pre-launch checks

1. Are the bilge pumps installed and working?
2. Are all seacocks open (or closed where appropriate)?
3. Did anyone leave a wrench on top of the alternator?
4. Are dock lines aboard?
5. Is fuel topped off?
6. Are documents aboard (registration, insurance, USCG documentation)?
7. Did you tell someone where you're going?

After the launch

The first 30 minutes after splash are when problems show up:

• Water in the bilge above normal? Stop, inspect.
• Engine alarms? Stop, inspect.
• Steering not responsive? Stop, inspect.
• Listen for new noises that weren't there in fall.

Run the boat at the dock for 10–15 minutes before leaving. Most problems will surface in this window.

When to bring in pros

Even DIY-inclined owners should consider hiring out:

• Standing rigging inspection (sailboats) — too much liability to skip
• Refrigerant recharge for boat AC/refrigeration
• Major electrical changes
• Fuel-system contamination cleanup

For shops in your area, browse our marine service directory. Plan ahead in spring — yards and surveyors are slammed in March-April.